Claudia Da Rin

Winter in Italy – a frosty splendour

A land of diversity and strong traditions

Winter is a time of silence and shadows, shorter days and the warmth of a log fire, spending quality time with family and friends, or simply letting go of all our worries. We welcome calmness and serenity, the rustling of leaves in the wind and the crunch of snow as we walk, while admiring the sunrays brightening up our day. Winter is also a time of rebirth and renewal, of transition and reconnection with our inner self.

One of the best ways to do so is to look for fresh ideas, travel to new places, or explore the hidden corners of known destinations. Travel to Italy and you’ll always be amazed at the sheer creativity, fine taste, astonishing craftsmanship and attention to details that features throughout – not to mention history and art in droves. Above all, across all regions you will find a proper culinary feast. Italians go mad with food – it’s their reason to be! – so expect a treat with gusto wherever you’ll go.  

Tuscany and its boundless winter charm

Visiting Tuscany is always a good idea, no matter what drives you to this potently splendid region in the heart of Italy. Beyond the Renaissance marvels, the supremely delicious food and wine, coupled with picturesque medieval villages, winter will give you a chance to go beyond the ordinary and explore novel places, such as Massa Marittima and its Fonti dell’abbondanza (Sources of abundance). The only sources of water within the city walls, they played a vital rose in the Middle Ages, but what strikes us today is the – rather sinful – fresco depicting the Tree of fertility, dating back to the 1300s. 

You will be stunned for how bold this work is! And equally intrigued by the many castles found in the Lunigiana area, where the Malaspina family ruled from the 13th c to the French revolution: visit Fosdinovo and its 11th c. castle, which hosted none other than Dante Alighieri and hides a tale of forbidden love, the unfortunate Bianca Maria Aloisia.  Do not forget Palazzo Dosi Magnavacca in Pontremoli with its grand reception hall featuring mythological tales, in a triumph of baroque magnificence. Do not miss festive delights such as ricciarelli and their wintery sugar coating, spicy panforte or the befanini, baked in early January and loved by children – and adults alike!

Soul-wrapping: Trieste in the winter

In a city where the potency of the sea and the towering heights of the Karst mountains live in unison, winter heralds profound sensory experiences that make every visit a pleasant surprise. As you walk around cosmopolitan Trieste, the scent of the sea permeates every corner, juxtaposed with the culinary fragrances typical of winter dishes – Istria-style granseola, jota soup, strucoli with meat, but also served in a sweet variation, seasoned with Vitovska wine.  Then it’s the festive season and sweet presnitz, putizza and gubana come along, rich in flavour and made with chocolate, raisins, dried fruits and rum.

Trieste and its compelling charm are a yearlong affair, and yet winter may enhance these feelings, the strong wind acquiring a liberating connotation that delivers freshness and purity of thought. Looking out to the sea from iconic Piazza Unità d’Italia, the largest seafront square in Europe, is bewildering: the stark blue of the water creates a compelling contrast with the sheer white of the imposing buildings that surround it, making an everlasting impression. And when the sun sets, find solace in an elegant café, a cozy osteria or osmize, only open at certain times of the year, where the real soul of this vibrant city comes alive.

Umbria: a contemplative appeal

At the heart of the mesmerising cultural and sensorial destination that is Italy, there appears Umbria, placed right in the centre of the land. Year-round alluring, Umbria will captivate with its ethereal landscapes and quiet aura of the winter months. Lovely Perugia, Gubbio, Spello and Assisi will cast their spell with their fairy-tale atmosphere, majestic art collections and unique heritage.

Come during the holidays and you’ll enjoy exciting events such as Umbria Jazz Winter in spellbinding Orvieto, with the added Christmas fanfare of delights – torciglione, panpepato or pinoccati anyone? The town is simply splendid and its cathedral a magnet of excellence, its façade one of the most original in Italy. Explore its heritage such as the Orvieto lace – featured on a Fendi bag, nonetheless!  or its Etruscan-era underground caves.

By all means do not leave without tasting Orvieto classico, the most famous wine produced in the region, the outcome of a mineral-rich soil that’s a delight for the senses. Umbria is authentic excellence through and through.

Poetry in motion  - Southern Piedmont in the festive season

The views stretching over the horizon, ethereal landscapes coloured with mist and frost, a sudden feeling of nostalgia that nurtures the soul. Southern Piedmont is a secret gem that’s even more appealing in the colder months. Visit picturesque Govone and its lovely Christmas markets  - they even come with an elf village, or Asti, where you’ll find another lovely Christmas market.  Head to Canelli and its UNESCO protected underground cathedrals where Asti Spumante is produced – even more reason to celebrate! Pick a sunny day and start walking on higher hills: the views will embrace the entire Alpine range and it’s not one you’ll want to miss! Then relax in the spa in Acqui Terme, known for their various exclusive treatments.

For moments of guilty pleasures, enjoy the delicious chocolate in Novi Ligure, Krumiri biscuits in Casale Monferrato and certainly prized truffles, along with some of Italy’s most prestigious wines like Barolo, Nebbiolo, or Dolcetto. You are in for a divine feast!

The alluring appeal of South Tyrol

Travelling through South Tyrol in the winter and you’ll feel like you’ve walked into a magic world: extraordinary Dolomites supremely guard gorgeous landscapes where nature triumphs and dons cheer and happiness. After a lovely walk within crisp surroundings, you’ll surely feel like something sweet. Enjoy a Christmas Zelten cake to get you in the festive mood!

Zelten Christmas Cake

  • Ingredients
  • 200 ml water
  • 20 g yeast
  • 2tbsp sugar
  • 150 g flour
  • 100 g rye flour
  • 15 g salt
  • 1 tbsp oil
  • 1 tbs aniseed

1 tbsp cumin

500 g dried figs, in cubes or strips

  • 250 g raisins
  • 120 g sultanas
  • 120 g mixed nuts
  • 120 g pine nuts
  • 50 g candied lemon peel
  • 50 g candied orange peel
  • 50 ml white wine
  • 3tbsp rum
  • 70 g honey
  • ½ tbsp. grated orange peel
  • ½ tbsp. grated lemon peel
  • ½ tbsp. cinnamon
  • 1 pinch clove powder
  • 1 pinch allspire
  • 1 pinch nutmeg walnuts, hazelnut or blanched almonds to decorate

Honey and sugar syrup to decorate

Method

  • Mix the yeast and sugar together with warm water and let rise for 10 minutes
  • Add flour, rye flour, salt, oil, aniseed, and cumin; knead well using a machine.
  • Cover, and let mixture rise in the oven for 30 minutes at 35 degrees C
  • Marinate the figs, raisins, sultanas, walnuts, pine nuts, almonds, citron, candied orange peel (soak in white wine beforehand) in rum and honey for at least an hour, until the Zelten acquires a good aroma.
  • Add the lemon and orange zest, cinnamon, clovesn and nutmeg.

To finish

  • Mix the marinated fruits and nuts into the dough thoroughly using a kneading machine
  • Form the dough into round or elongated cakes and decorate with walnuts and almonds.
  • Place the cakes on a baking sheet and let rest for 20 minutes.
  • Bake in preheated oven, brushing frequently with honey or sugar syrup, until they take on a rich brown colour
  • Let cool. Decorate with candied cherries then cover in plastic wrap.
  • Baking temperature: 170 degrees Celsius, cooking time: 40 minutes