The seductive, enigmatic appeal of Puglia

Puglia feels remote and captivating

Deep in the south of Italy, Puglia feels remote and captivating, a sense of freedom between vast sandy beaches and mysterious rock caves, endless stretches of wheat fields and olive groves, stunning Romanesque and Baroque churches with hidden architectural gems, superb local cuisine - cucina povera – adding delight to unique experiences.

Subject to invasions over several millennia, the Greeks, the Romans, the Saracens and the Normans left their marks, giving rise to contrasting legacies and traditions united in a living, ever flourishing mosaic. One visit is enough to see that Puglia can become a state of mind, one big canvas where the sea dons its bluer shade against pale white dwellings and the light embodies everything, shining bright day and night. Get lost along its many cycling and hiking trails, find respite on a superb beachfront, taste the best taralli or juiciest tomatoes and learn about proud people, well aware that their region is truly special.

Europe’s ethereal Land’s End: Salento

Lu Salentu: lu sule, lu mare, lu jentu. This is how the locals define this magically far-flung, but extraordinarily fascinating land that sits at the heel of Italy. The sun here is an artist, giving a touch of colour and light to everything, the sea stretches over 300 km of coastline with pristine waters, fishing a sound activity that fosters biodiversity and the wind that blows over tawny-coloured fields stretching over the horizon. Known as the Florence of the south, Lecce stuns for its many Baroque churches – the Basilica di Santa Croce is Barocco leccese to the nth degree – and comes with its own Roman amphitheatre, right in the town centre.

Further south, Galatina is where you’ll see the tarantella dance being played, originating in the Tarantismi, that is spider music. Subject to many-an invasion, Otranto is a lovely coastal town with an exceptional Norman cathedral, replete with skulls and mosaics, as well as a 15th c. Aragonese castle. Head to Gallipoli for another bash of Baroque marvels in its centro storico, or splendid Castro, featuring a 12th c. cathedral, intact walls and a castle in the old town. Swooping vistas, delicious food and an exceptional heritage: Salento is a masterpiece.

The city of two seas, Taranto

A veil of maritime charm for a city that stuns for its heritage and colourful present, Taranto is an unexpected jewel. Walk the many small alleys in the old town to see fishermen coming home from their day out at sea, visit the Archaeological Museum and expect nothing less than Greek works of art.

The 15th c. Castello Aragonese shines in its glory and watches over the swing bridge, magically opening to let boats pass by, and the remains of the Temple of Poseidon. Visit the 11th c. cathedral, one of the region’s oldest Romanesque buildings, with the Baroque chapel of San Cataldo, featuring polychrome marble inlay and brightly coloured frescoes. Lazy out on a beach in San Vito, Torre Ovo or Marina di Ginosa, then soak in the atmosphere and taste the catch of the day in one of the many delicious seafood restaurants. How has this picturesque city, sprawling over two seas, captured the attention of many a traveller? It’s time you found out.

Travel in time: Matera and its surroundings

Not far from Taranto, but going back several millennia, the ancient cave dwellings of Matera, carved into limestone cliffs, are known the world over. A UNESCO protected site since 1993, Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano are the main quarters, made up by plenty of small alleys, an immersive museum and staggering viewpoints. Try and visit in the evening, when the lights make the setting even more magical. Some scenes of the James Bond movie No time to die, with Daniel Craig, were shot here: who’s up for finding where?

The place is part of the regional Parco della Murgia Materana, a spectacular setting where you’ll find the Gravina di Matera, a 20 km-long canyon that ends with the hamlet of Montescaglioso, but also several ancient churches and many hiking trails to explore this special landscape. Next door to Puglia, Gravina di Puglia is close by, on the limestone plain of the Murgia, part of the Alta Murgia National Park. Here, too, you will see ancient dwellings with rock engravings, underground passageways, medieval churches and many hiking and biking trails.

Beach marvels in Puglia

Certainly famous for its staggering coastline, Puglia beaches will suit everyone, with a superb collection of pristine waters, secluded coves and dreamy beaches, like San Vito, near Taranto, with a sandy beach and emerald waters that make it a perfect, relaxing day. Campomarino di Maruggio also features a sandy beach and some of the clearest waters in Puglia: seize the day and also taste juicy, fresh seafood, toasting with a chilled drink from the groovy beach bars. Torre Ovo will spoil you with its fine sandy and rocky shores: spend the day away from the crowds in this lovely, unspoilt place. Another paradise close to Taranto, Chiatona beach stuns for its sand dunes, blue waters and laid-back atmosphere, while Marina di Ginosa is a Blue Flag beach with fine sand and shallow waters, surrounded by a lush pine forest.

Marina di Pulsano offers a collection of small coves with fine white sand and shallow turquoise waters, and San Pietro in Bevagna is Puglia’s answer to the Maldives: a long stretch of soft, white sand for long days under the Mediterranean sun. If it’s a hip vibe you’re after, head to Porto Cesareo: you will love its many beach clubs and restaurants, where you’ll savour delicious food while admiring tropical-like waters. And don’t miss Gallipoli, the ideal combination of sandy beaches like Baia Verde, a natural paradise like Punta della Suina, with a funky, vibrant nightlife

A paradise of biodiversity: Foresta Umbra

Hosting one of the largest national parks in Italy, the Gargano is also home to the magical Foresta Umbra, the “forest of shadows”, with hills rising up to 800m above sea level. Here you’ll see unexpectedly tall, enormous beech, oaks, yews and Aleppo pines within a UNESCO protected area that is a haven of biodiversity: more than 30% of the flora that is found in Italy - well over sixty types of orchids have been detected in the area, with more than 2,000 types of plant species – and 70% of the fauna that breeds in the country is found here – roe deer, wild boar, badgers, wild cats and more.

Many well-marked trails will make the joy of hikers and bikers, while a hut is an ideal place for a rest. But do not stop there and explore splendid Mattinata, known as the “butterfly of the Gargano” in view of its shape, deep within olive groves, then Baia delle Zagare with the turquoise water as a fabulous backdrop. Puglia really is one big treasure-trove.

Puglia at its most authentic: Valle d’Itria

A highly fertile land within a sea of olive groves, these endless stretches of the precious fruit welcome visitors like an old friend. Punctuated by the cones of the iconic trulli, this stretch of land is attractive, delightful, certainly popular and truly authentic. From the provinces of Bari down to Taranto, the landscape is a maze of archaeological sites and ravines, dry-stone walls, vineyards and picturesque country lanes, but also luxury masserias: a cinematic effect in a spectacular area.

Explore UNESCO protected Alberobello, its Monti and Aia Piccola quarters, and see what these mysterious buildings are all about. Do not miss Locorotondo and its attractive centro storico, but also the whitewashed hilltop town of Cisternino and Martina Franca, the highest in the Murgia, founded in the 10th c. and hosting a renowned arts festival – the Festival della Valle d’Itria. Perhaps most famous of them all, Ostuni is known as the “white city”, its bright white houses shining intensely from afar. Rich in history, its Gothic-Romanesque cathedral is decorated by a unique rose-window and its narrow streets will beguile any visitor. Enjoy the sea air and take a dip in the turquoise waters of Torre Pozzelle, Torre Guaceto, Costa Rossa or Costa Merlata: the magic lives on here.

When elegance meets a dream: the sweet charm of Trani

The sight of Trani cathedral, its pale stone shining bright against the deep blue sea, sitting on the jetty overlooking the vast horizon, is one you shan’t forget easily: it is beauty personified. Set in what is one of the most elegant cities in Puglia, Trani was founded by the Romans and has always played a pivotal role in maritime history, given its prime position on the Adriatic coast. Learn about its rich history by visiting the old town, with its limestone walls, the picturesque fort and of course the cathedral of San Nicola; founded in 1143, it is dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Pilgrim and hosts a stunning, cinematic crypt. Also nearby are the 13th c. castle and the Scolanova Synagogue.

Move south and you’ll find Bari, the capital of Puglia, its atmospheric old town with medieval alleys and the cathedral dedicated to Saint Nicola an arresting sight. Visit the seafood market for what may be the freshest catch of the region, then make your way to striking Polignano a Mare, built on the edge of a ravine and sitting high on a limestone cliff. Remnants of the Via Traiana, built in the 2nd c., are found north of the historic centre, but do not stop there: enjoy the deep blue waters at Lama Monachile and Cala Paura or visit the caves of this outstanding place.

The sublime delights of cucina povera

Simplicity and phantasy are the ingredients of many delicious recipes that render any meal in Puglia a genuine feast. Making the most of a highly fertile land, this is a region where everything looks and tastes divine: here, cucina povera takes on a new meaning that rhymes with pleasure and excellent taste. From bread – pane di Altamura - to olive oil - Puglia is the biggest olive oil producer in Italy –, to cheese – caciocavallo - then delicious fruits and vegetables that create signature dishes.

Orecchiette with cime di rapa, chickpea tagliatelle (Ciceri e tria) baked mussels (cozze arroganate), stuffed eggplants, Bari focaccia, friselle, taralli, then sweet sporcamussi, frettole or cartellate… the list is endless and there is one big secret: simplicity. Put this alongside the highly nutritious and healthy Mediterranean diet and you’ll understand why local specialities are hard to forget. Don’t leave without tasting Primitivo, Negroamaro, Uva di Troia, Malvasia and Aglianico red wines, but also Verdeca, Fiano, Malvasia Bianca white wines to come full circle with the Puglia splendour.

A maze of wonders: caves of Puglia

It is true that, sometimes, the biggest wonders lie right below our feet and it’s the case of the many extraordinary caves dotted around Puglia. Cave paintings, games of light and natural pools: this is the legacy of a staggering karst heritage. The Grotte di Castellana, by Bari, make up one of Italy’s longer subterranean network, with a variety of underground landscapes entailing stalactite and stalagmite formations, narrow ways and an amazing alabaster cavern (Grotta Bianca) that is best viewed at night!

The Grotta dei Cervi, in Porto Badisco by Otranto, holds engravings dating back to the Neolithic era and is a natural sea cave that is not accessible to the public; a 3-D show in the castle of Otranto will reveal all the beauty of this intriguing place, illustrating its rich history. The Grotta della Poesia (poetry cave) in Roca Vecchia, by Lecce, is an exceptional natural pool with ancient inscriptions, where you can dive in and marvel at this unique place. Many more caves are to be found along the region, especially along the coastline, including the twenty-odd ones in Vieste, with others in Santa Maria di Leuca or Polignano a Mare. Puglia really is a place shaped by history!

Spur to action: hiking and biking in Puglia

If you thought that holidays in the south of Italy were all about lazying out under the hot sun, then you’d be amazed at how sporty types will be in their element, with the added, mesmerizing view of the sea to make it pure joy. Hiking and biking trails come in droves here: You could cycle from Matera to the Gargano, a coast-to-coast, multi-day trip from the Gargano down to Salento, see the world heritage sites, from Bari to Polignano a Mare via Alberobello or discover the Baroque splendour of this exciting region.

You may also add gourmet experiences – a cooking course along the way? – or a delicious tasting session, elevating your experience to a superlative one. The many nature reserves will be starting points of inspiring hikes, like Pianelle by Martina Franca, via oak forests and limestone formations, Torre Guaceto by Brindisi, via marshland, coastal dunes and pristine beaches, offering the chance to see flamingos and sea turtles along the marine protected area. Gravina di Laterza, by Taranto, is known as the Grand Canyon of Puglia and the trail will bring you up close with ancient cave dwellings and frescoed rocks, while the Alta Murgia National Park goes via rugged hills and archaeological sights. And there is so much more to see and do: time to get active!

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