The green heart of Italy: Umbria

Saints and art: searching for the real Umbrian identity

Historically, Umbria is perhaps best known as the birthplace of two famous saints: Saint Benedict from Norcia and Saint Francis of Assisi, the patron of Italy. Often referred to as “the land of saints”, you will sense that Umbrian light, a silvery haze that hangs over the gentle curves of the land, combined with the soothing silence, adds a sense of sacredness to the region. Many visitors flock to UNESCO Heritage Site Assisi to admire the unique fresco cycles by Giotto and Cimabue in the Upper Basilica, superb Trecento cycles in the Lower one and to have a real sense of Christianity. Other minor towns, however, retain as much spell, such as charming Gubbio. Quintessentially medieval, its Corsa dei Ceri, held on May 15, is an astonishing parade whose exuberance and bizarre pageantry is only matched by the Palio in Siena. Spoleto is equally captivating and delightful, featuring a scenic setting, fabulous Romanesque churches and boasting a world-famous music summer Festival – the Festival dei due mondi. If you pass by Orvieto, its Duomo will stun you. One of the greatest Gothic buildings in Italy, its façade is a star turning and a triumph of columns, spires, sculptures, blended with an overpowering use of colour. Inside, the Last Judgement cycle in the Saint Brizio chapel is Luca Signorelli’s masterpiece and is said to rival even Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel in impact and drama.  Medieval and pink-stoned, Spello is quaint and charming, its walls and three gateways the most obvious Roman remnants and its fresco cycle by Pinturicchio in the Baglioni Chapel in Santa Maria Maggiore a jewel. Perugia, the provincial capital, retains a picturesque medieval centre and houses the exquisite Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria. Among central Italy’s most prestigious galleries, it takes you on a whistle stop tour of Umbrian painting, the most famous artist being Perugino.

The famous Baci pralines were first produced here in 1922 and a yearly chocolate festival – Eurochocolate – will satisfy even the sweetest tooth. Umbria Jazz, Italy’s foremost jazz events, takes place here every summer: its line-up is so rich and varied that visitors come from all over the world to see talented artists

And that’s not all! Bevagna, Foligno, Todi, Gualdo Tadino, Colfiorito… the list goes on and on in a maze of tranquil, proud, picturesque and simply beautiful places, best discovered when the subtle autumn light swathes each and every thing.