Claudia Da Rin

Life in a sweet crescent – Liguria dreams

The Italian Riviera

The delightful little crescent known as the Italian Riviera – Liguria – combines the beauty of a rugged coastline with a superb mountain backdrop. Home to some delightful regional delicacies – pesto, olive oil, wine, focaccia and many more – the area has been a favourite for several centuries, the most famous residents perhaps Shelley and Byron, who were captured by the compelling beauty of its unique landscape.

Beyond the unexpected charm of its capital, Genoa, the region is a collection of hidden gems, found in a secluded cove or a perfectly formed bay. Life in Liguria is one of ascents and descents, a view to the sea always in the background for moments to treasure. 

1. A jet setters paradise – Portofino and beyond

Delightfully scenic, Portofino is loved by the well-heeled, its bay a prime location for star spotting, luxury yachts always lining its quay. And rightly so: the town sits at the end of a sinuous, tree-lined road that overlooks the sea and any stroll will have you marvel at designer shops or enjoy a delicious meal. The entire area is part of a natural regional park: do not miss lovely – even remote – walks along the coast for scenic views. Pack in a lovely 13th c. monastery that can only be reached on foot or from the sea – San Fruttuoso – hiding in a secluded cove – and pay a visit to pretty Santa Margherita Ligure, with its lovely seaside promenade and Liberty-style hotels.  Do not miss gorgeous Camogli, its cinematic bay with a lovely church at the end the place to be for a wonderful aperitivo and events of all types, including a Fish Festival taking place in May, when a giant pan is placed along the waterfront.  Several trails connect Portofino to Camogli, including an exposed one – not for the faint hearted – as well as biking opportunities for sporty types.

2. Discover Cinque Terre

A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997, sublime Cinque Terre is a collection of five lovely fishing villages making up this splendid stretch on the eastern shores of Liguria. Capturing the imagination of many a traveller, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore date back to the Middle Ages and boast terraced cliffs cascading onto the sea in a picturesque fashion, with a series of small fields and gardens that make the scene unique. The villages are best explored on foot – the Alta Via delle Cinque Terre connects Portovenere in the south of the area with Levanto  - with the famous Via dell’amore having recently reopened, but can also be admired and visited with a lovely boat trip. Train hopping is also an option, giving you the chance to explore each area and its distinct soul. The peculiarity that makes this part of Italy loved the world over is the way these fishing villages were built: create your own travel romance by exploring them all in a journey of delight. Monterosso, its lemon trees and convent, Manarola and its grapes that yield supreme wines, Vernazza and its magic natural harbour, Riomaggiore and its medieval houses, Corniglia and its dazzling belvedere for a sublime experience.  

3. Inspiring poets - the Golfo dei Poeti

Magic captures every traveller whenever they set foot on the Italian soil, with such a collection of art cities, momentous heritage and love of traditions. Stirring landscapes invariably add the icing on a lovely cake that stirs the soul: when you come to Portovenere, to the far end of Liguria, and walk to the small hilltop church overlooking the sea, this magical aura does really kick in. Close to La Spezia, Italy’s biggest naval base – do not forget that the Amerigo Vespucci is the prettiest ship in the world and that Italy is a seafaring nation –

Portovenere is so picture-perfect that the romantic poets Lord Byron and Percy Bysse Shelley moved to the area in the 1820s – the latter ever perished in Lerici and the former having his very own cave – Grotta di Byron, with views stretching on to the Cinque Terre. The arresting beauty of what is now known as the Golfo dei Poeti, from Portovenere to Tellaro, mesmerised writers such as Petrach and Dante as far back as the Trecento and it’s time you joined in this journey of sea and culture. Why not take a boat, enjoy the small UNESCO-protected islands of Tino, Tinetto and Palmaria, by Portovenere, and venture further to see the beauty of the coast from a vantage point. This is a dream of a land.

4. Life at sea – Genoa and its heritage

La superba, as it’s known to Italians, Genoa is a city of exciting contrasts and revelations. Remarkable museums are hosted in the Palazzi dei Rolli – a group of palaces that once belonged to the city’s most prominent families –  with Palazzo Ducale and especially Palazzo Reale a must, with its Galleria degli Specchi (hall of mirrors) and dazzling works by Van Dyck and Filippo Parodi, a Liguria 18th c. sculptor. Walk along narrow, dark caruggi – small alleys – then explore lovely parks and gardens, perhaps enjoying the view with a cable car  ride – the Funicolare Zecca Righi whisks you up the mountain and leads to gorgeous trails.

The sea, is, however, what made Genoa a power over the centuries and much of the city’s attraction and aura revolves around it. The five-storey Galata Museo del Mare traces the history of what was once one of the strongest maritime powers, with state-of-the-art exhibits and a history of the local sailing and steamship. The Acquarium is one of the largest in Europe, hosting four hundred animal species and two hundred plant species: learn everything about tropical, temperate and cold seas, as well as tropical forests. Then stroll along the Boccadasse promenade, a borough to the east of the city that is much loved by locals, who come here in the evening to enjoy a delightful sundowner, the marvel revealing in front of them.

5. The Genoa international Boat Show

Come and enjoy the best of the yachting world at Italy’s most prominent maritime event: now in its 64th edition, the Salone Nautico is the go-to fair for the yachting industry and sea-lovers alike. Taking place from 19 to 24 September 2024, the event will also assign the prestigious Design Innovation Award, aiming at supporting excellence in the maritime industry, showcasing cutting-edge products and their creators.  Designed by archistar Renzo Piano, the waterfront di Levante will offer 250 mooring sites in a unique platform, with the Blue Pavillion sitting on an island.

This is your chance to come up close with a unique heritage where talent, design, technology, research and innovation meet, in the country where style and craftsmanship always steal the scene.

6.A perfect day on the beach in Liguria

You will find plenty of opportunities to swim in crystal-clear waters all around Italy: Liguria will have you in awe when you look up and the profile of sinuous mountains stand out in the distance. All along this lovely crescent, opportunities abound. Punta Chiappa, to the east of Camogli, is a sharp, rocky promontory where the wind, the salt and lovely dives create a watery feast. The pebbly beach of Levanto sits on a lovely promenade that is just asking for you to join in: close to picturesque Rapallo, the area was loved and visited by Yeats and Ezra Pound, who drew inspiration from its 16th c. castle and the overall nostalgic feel.

Paraggi, is where glitzy shops meet a manicured sandy beach, with a delightful pedestrian walkway connecting Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino, close by. Noli is a popular place among rock climbers who tackle superb climbing routes overlooking the sea and then relax on the Spiaggia dei pescatori. Bergeggi and its Bay of Sirens offer superb sandy beaches and a yearly open-water swimming competition around the small island, just off the coast. Varigotti, by Savona, has three stunning beaches: Punta Crena, Baia dei Saraceni and Ca’ dei Mori, with sandy coves and azure waters that are simply too inviting. Sestri Levante and the Baia del Silenzio. Come and find your paradise!

7. Liguria on a plate

Visiting Italy without trying its delicious regional delicacies is impossible, exquisite dishes revealing the love for local food and a strong attachment to traditions. Liguria is no exception and local dishes make the most of this exceptional land. Pesto is surely the most famous local speciality and it is best served with trofie pasta to enjoy its lovely flavour. As simple as it is delicious, farinata is a chickpea flatbread that is enjoyed piping hot, sometimes squeezed between two slices of bread.

Focaccia, made with flour, yeast, water, salt and olive oil, is quintessentially from Liguria, with variations along the coast: Recco has its own type with cheese, while Sanremo, to the west of the region, offers the sardenara version, topped with tomatoes, capers and onions. Corzetti is a medal-shaped pasta type, best enjoyed with walnut or pesto sauce, while Pansotti is another fresh pasta variation filled with ricotta and herbs. In Rapallo you will find gobeletti, apple-filled biscuits, while Alassio is the home of the baci, delicious biscuits made with hazelnut and chocolate. Enjoy!

8. Pesto making at villa Edera

When feasting on gourmet delicacies while touring Italy is not enough, a cooking class comes up your way to teach you the correct recipes and repeat the wonder at home. Nothing beats learning from a native, so the cooking classes of Villa Edera are a dream come true. This splendid hotel by Moneglia is the perfect gateway to your Liguria dream experience.

You may think that any basil will do, when creating your own sauce: what makes Liguria pesto so special is the fact that local basil leaves are smaller and richer in taste, the ones used for the recipes coming from very young plants grown across the region. You will learn why a pestle and mortar are compulsory – no metal blades! –  and celebrate a long-standing heritage made with passion and strong dedication. Add delicious Liguria wines to make it a unique experience in a lovely setting. 

9. Unexpected sublime wine

Every region in Italy offers a splendid collection of wines and olive oil, the landscape and exposure shaping the taste and qualities of local delicacies.

Introduced by the Etruscan and Greeks, vines have been grown for more than twenty centuries to the east and west of the region. Among the most prestigious wine varieties, the Cinque Terre DOC is a favourite: famous for its Vermentino wine, known locally as Pigato, this wine reminds of local pine-wood and sea-salt aromas. Red wines are represented by fruity and spicy Rossese, with the DOC Dolceacqua, while other delightful varieties are the Golfo del Tigullio, Colli di Luni and Val Polcevera, making use of the Coronata grape, unique to Liguria.  Rarities and specialities are also to be found in the Granaccia, Alicante, Albarola, Ormeasco and Lumassima labels. Enjoy a tasting while looking at marvellous scenery and time will seem even more precious.

10. Liquid gold – Liguria olive oil

Liguria may be a small region, but it prides itself in offering a unique setting with a spectacular food and wine scene. This includes a delicate, much-loved Riviera Ligure olive oil variety. Going hand in hand with dry stonewalls that define the architecture and landscape of the entire region, local inhabitants learnt to cope with a somewhat arid soil and the limited space over the centuries, making the most of a Mediterranean climate to produce a truthful liquid gold. An area awarded the UNESCO label, this product of excellence has a delicate flavour that gently envelops every dish with its distinct scent.

Passion for this exquisite product is so strong that several producers even have an educational farm aimed at young children, teaching them to discover the world of oil, pressing and tasting, surrounded by nature. Take part in a tasting tour to capture the soul of this amazing region and the sweet memories of a unique region will conquer your heart.  

Travel Tips where to stay

Villa Edera Boutique Hotel in Moneglia

Ask for more info about the best experiences and itinereraries we can design in Liguria

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